Mumbaikars, with their penchant for good food and a nose for what’s new in the city, are the most experimental lot of gourmands. They accept new cuisines with open arms. A new restaurant, The Penang Table, that’s spotlighting Malaysian food in Mumbai, is opening doors, so go experience the Malaysia-truly Asia vibe through its food. While you may spot Malay dishes on the menus of certain Asian or Pan Asian restaurants in the city where Malay food gets just a section or a passing mention, here, it is exuding main character energy.
Cocktails, Economics and Flavours
The Penang Table is housed where Miss Margot once stood. In just about three months of the cocktail lounge’s existence, Kishore DF — a veteran restaurateur who has been in the business for three decades — realised that the economics of the place weren’t working out as planned. Hence, why not use the space and turn it into “Bombay’s first Malay diner-cum-bar-cum-bistro”?
Malaysians have a very assimilated palate, and their cuisine has Chinese, Indian, indigenous and colonial influences. It is the poster child for a melting pot of flavours where many cuisines collide and the result is a delish mix!
When I walked around the 34,000-ft bistro-style eatery, painted in bright colours, bathed in natural sunlight, adorned with statement chandeliers and Malaysian history on its many walls, the team was gearing up for its official launch in a few days. With training happening in one section, signs being hung in one, teams brainstorming in another, it dawned on me that there’s something truly wondrous to be privy to some BTS action like this.
Ingredient-Rich and Flavour-Forward
Shining light on ingredients like lemongrass, pandan leaves, tamarind, fresh and dried spices, and herbs like dried chillies, galangal, turmeric, candlenut, and more, that are predominant in Malay cuisine, Chef Mitesh Rangras and team are tipping their hats to Malaysian food. The curation comes after several personal and professional trips to Malaysia.
While the non-vegetarian dishes are true to the roots, the vegetarian fare (which ideally doesn’t exist there) is curated by the team while reimagining the cuisine’s foundation. It is tough to cater to vegetarians, vegans, and Jains when the cuisine generally boasts of pastes made using shrimp and anchovies.
You will find satays, dumplings, Roti Canai, Bakar Bakar, Lasi Lemak, Curry Laksa, Char Kway Teow, Mee Goreng Mamak and more Malaysian delights with a touch of French on the menu. My tasting took me on a gastronomical ride of flavours. The freshest start came from salads like Tender Coconut and Avocado Salad, Prawn and Pomelo Salad and the Sarawa Salmon Sashimi. The satays here, like the Sweet Potato and Baby Onion Satay and Pepper Buff Satay were rich in flavours, served along with the freshest pineapple-onion salsa that you can chomp on its own as is. You can also dip these into the three condiments served as you take your seat.
The flavours then pick up in textures and layers in Ayam Goreng, a deep-fried chicken, and Popiya, the Southeast Asian spring roll. Dishes like Roti Sarang with egg in the middle and meat around it coalesce into a star dish. But the real magic happens with mains like Black Pork Curry and Prawn Raw Mango Curry served with sides like Parotha and Jasmine Rice. The flavours don’t feel foreign because the ingredients are also very familiar to Indian palates. Comforting, homely is what I would describe it as.
The drinks here are not to steal the spotlight away from the food, but to be the strong best friend character that elevates the lead through and through. Curated by Mixologist Pranav Modi, you will see pandan, kaffir lime and lemongrass making appearances in your drinks.
At The Penang Table, the confluence of cultures and flavours through its thoughtful menu shines brightly. Just like Kishore DF, who is crazy about Malaysian food, you, too, will love it as soon as you make your way there.
Rating: ★★★★☆ 4.5/5
Where: 1st Floor, VN Sphere Mall, Linking Rd, Bandra
When: 12 pm to 12 am
Cost: Rs 1800 for two
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