Never in my life could I imagine eating caviar with mini podi idli. Delicately placedon a large spoon, I take a bite and turn to restauranter Sahil Sambhi and ask him about this unusual pairing. “Well, I’ve got caviar at all my other restaurants – Japonico and Latango – so why not here,” he smiles. Does the combination work? Absolutely.
That’s Nadoo – Delhi’s new South Indian restaurant that brings dishes from southern states that you may not have had in the city before.
A Southern Home in Delhi
Chef Shri Bala and Sambhi have created a gorgeous 65-seater space where the cuisine from Andhra, Telangana, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala goes beyond dosas that define South Indian food in Delhi. Set up as a tribute to his mother, he says this restaurant takes him back to the years he spent in Bangalore.
When I walk into Nadoo, I have to remind myself that I am in Delhi. The terracotta hued earthy walls add that typical touch of a South Indian home — Sahil wanted to create something similar to his Bengaluru home that had bricked hued walls. There’s a small water body on one side with brass Nandi figures and a swing seat facing the open kitchen. That is where I decide to sit.
The Food – Street Snacks to Signature Plates
The expansive menu with about 58 dishes is divided into nibbles, salads, small plates, core plates as well as biryani and thali. Going beyond the usual staples served in Delhi restaurants, Chef Shri Bala brings a wealth of knowledge about the cuisine from all five southern states.
As soon as I settle down, I am served a welcome drink called ‘panakam’ made with dry ginger, lemon, jaggery, tamarind and cardamom. With a citrusy tang, not only is it delicious, but also a digestive – which is much needed for the meal that’s to follow.
I start with Kala Ghoda Hummus that’s drizzled with a bit of salsa in the centre with parotta crisps. This is Chef Bala’s reimagined version of sundal – a popular beachside snack that is typically handed in a paper cone. Along with the crisp Kerala egg puff, it makes for a perfect bite along with cocktails, which also have a touch of the South.
Pepper Saru is a chilled rasam-like drink finished with freshly ground pepper while Malabar Drift is their take on a Picante with tequila, birds eye chilli and more. It has quite a kick.
The Green Chilli Chicken is an Andhra specialty that’s prepared in a green chilli paste and is expectedly spicy. The super soft bao makes for the perfect accompaniment. Seafood lovers should not skip the Spicy Pepper Prawn Thokku and Curry Leaf Lobster.
When it comes to the core plates – the mains – the pineapple gassi with Mangalore buns is a match made in heaven while the raan is a delicious preparation made in Chettinadu style and served with a crisp coin parotta. I could not skip the Benne dosa – it was soft and fluffy, the best I have had in Delhi.
Then comes the Military Donne Biryani – for me it was the star dish of the meal. A great change from the typical Andhra biryani, it was made famous by the legendary Shivaji Military Hotel in Bengaluru. The green chilli and coriander paste turn the rice green in colour and give it a kick, but it is not as spicy as the Andhra biryani.
For desserts, I have the Forbidden Rice Coconut Pudding made with black rice and coconut milk. It is quite delicious. But what takes me by surprise is the Crispy Pongal Pouch – it is phyllo with jaggery, ghee dust and edible camphor. It’s sweet and nutty but unlike anything I have had before. Next time I want to try the Pol Rotti Tres Leches. Filter coffee ice cream aptly wraps up my meal.
In A Nutshell
Nadoo is one of those restaurants where you feel at home. The food, though playful and inventive, is not intimidating – it is rooted, comforting and makes you want to come back again.
Rating: 4.8/5
Address: Ground Floor, VIIPS Centre, Greater Kailash Part 3, New Delhi. Timings: 12PM to 5PM and 7PM to 12AM
Price for two: Rs. 3000 plus taxes
Phone: 9217679217, 9217499217
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