Some restaurants announce themselves loudly. Ammakai doesn’t. Tucked away in Bandra and brought to life by Bastian Hospitality under Ranjit Bindra’s vision, it greets you quietly, warmly is like walking into a home where someone has already started cooking and is expecting you. The name itself, Ammakai, meaning mother’s hand, sets the tone. This is food guided by instinct, memory, and feeling, the kind that doesn’t follow recipes as much as it follows intuition.
Before anything hits the table, the space already does half the talking. The interiors feel layered and thoughtful without trying too hard. There are earthy terracotta tones everywhere, broken up with hand-painted details, woven textures, and warm wood. Arched doorways gently divide the dining area, making the space feel intimate rather than sprawling. The lighting is soft and low, casting a glow that feels comforting and almost familiar, not dramatic, not staged, just right.
The seating is plush and easy, with patterned upholstery that subtly nods to South Indian textiles. It’s balanced by simple tables and muted brass accents that keep things grounded. What I liked most is that it doesn’t feel designed for quick photos or rushed meals. It feels lived in. A place where you can settle in, talk too long, and order one more thing because no one is rushing you.
I started with the cocktails, and they deserve attention. There’s a clear coastal thread running through the menu. I tried the Coastal Daiquiri, and what stood out was how restrained it was. The coconut came through gently, creamy, rounded, never sweet or heavy. Some of the other cocktails play with flavours like rasam, tamarind and kokum, adding that familiar South Indian tang and spice in ways that feel thoughtful, not forced. These are drinks you sip slowly, the kind that reveal themselves over time rather than demanding attention.
The food follows the same philosophy. The Chicken Ghee Roast was rich and comforting, with tender pieces coated in a masala that packed flavour without overwhelming the palate. The Tawa-fried Pomfret was cooked just right and crisp on the outside, delicate within and the Curry Leaf Prawns delivered that unmistakable aroma that immediately feels like home. But the real standout for me was the Benne Dosa. Soft, buttery, and deeply satisfying, it left that lingering richness long after the plate was cleared. Paired with their curries, it was simple in the best way possible it’s the kind of dish that doesn’t need explanation or reinvention. I’d honestly go back just for that dosa.
Ammakai encourages you to eat with your hands, to share plates, and to slow down. There’s no pressure to perform your meal here. It feels personal, almost intimate. South Indian food, presented with care and restraint, letting flavours of coconut, tamarind, curry leaf, and spice do what they’ve always done best.
In a city that’s constantly chasing what’s new, Ammakai feels grounding. It doesn’t try to impress with excess. It stays with you because it feels familiar, comforting, and real. More than a new opening, it feels like a place you’ll return to — not for the hype, but because it fits into your rhythm.
Rating: ★★★★☆ 4.5/5
Hours: An all-day dining spot, open from 11 AM to 1 AM.
Where: Kamal Building, B/1, New Linking Road, near Burger King, Bandra West, Mumbai
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