Subko’s story began in 2020 when the Mumbai-born Specialty Coffee Roastery and Craft Bakehouse opened its doors in a restored 1925 Goan bungalow in the bylanes of Chapel Road, Bandra. Ever since then, locality, culture, and provenance have been part of its DNA. Perhaps, that is what makes a visit to any of their outlets in Mumbai or Bengaluru seem much more than just a quick in and out to grab a hot cuppa coffee.
And now, the multi-vertical craft brand has opened its flagship space in the capital. With an eye on becoming a part of its future, LoCol by Subko pays a homage to Lodhi Colony’s past in a neighbourhood known for its blend of layered history, public art, and contemporary culture. The multi-level outlet houses a retail and takeaway section on the ground floor, a main dining area on the first floor along with a small outdoor seating section as well as an almost speakeasy-like mezzanine floor which can only be accessed via the first floor. The baithak-style seating arrangement at this Diwan-i-Khaas is meant for screenings and community gatherings but one can easily imagine sitting on the low-floor seating working on a laptop or being engrossed in a book. A window opening on the floor looks right down at their bakery and you can catch all the action of the dough being prepped and baked for various dishes.
Pay attention and you will find yourself engrossed in nuggets of Delhi’s history and culture scattered across the first floor. A mural in Gurmukhi spells ‘Sultanate of Specialty’ at the outdoor seating area. A Design DNA wall narrates Subko’s design philosophy and a Raw Materials Room depicts the journey of the fruits used in their coffee. For history and culture buffs like us, the Locolities wall is a revelation, mapping the various boroughs that weave the cultural tapestry of New Delhi, akin to an art gallery. The LoCol Meri Jaan section localises it even further, providing glimpses into what went into the creation of Lodhi Colony.
However, at the end of the day, the primary reason one would visit LoCol would be to enjoy their specialty coffees and craft bakehouse and the lingering aroma of fresh coffee wafting in the air does not let you forget that. Anyone who has visited any of Subko’s flagships or mini outposts in other cities is familiar with the quality of their specialty coffee sourced from India as well as from beyond such as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Myanmar, Thailand, China, and Indonesia. Whether you order something from their Espresso Bar such as a Cortado or a Coco Nolen Gur Flat White or get yourself a glass of one of their experimental brews such as Cascara Lemonade or Subko Float, it is the diversity and richness of flavours from the Indian subcontinent that truly makes every drink stand out.
The Matcha movement seems to have finally caught on with Subko and their very first matcha menu has some classics such as Vietnamese Matcha and Matcha Latte but for beginners such as us who are still in the ‘should we, shouldn’t we’ phase, the Matcha Strawbs & Cream and Tender Coconut Matcha sit easy on the palate. The craft sandwich section has plenty of interesting options and while our go-to Bacon and Caramelised Onion Grilled Cheese is as savoury and indulgent as always, the Noir Wheat Focaccia made with black wheat flour, rosemary, garlic, Stracciatella and housemade pesto gets our vote for flavour and texture. The Podi BG Toast is another banger and we relish the gunpowder-cream cheese spread with mustard seeds and curry leaves on a gluten free toast.
The bakehouse section has us feeling like kids in a candy shop. The Cold Brew Chocolate Hazelnut Tart calls out to the chocolate lover in us and the gluten free tart with cold brew custard, 70 percent dark chocolate and roasted hazelnuts feels like a gooey hug on a chilly Delhi night. On our way out, we make a quick dash to the takeaway section to pick up a chilled can of Jaago – their creamy jaggery-oat milk coffee perfectly balanced with a kick of caffeine and sweetness from jaggery.
With all their craft, storytelling and specialities under one roof, LoCol by Subko is a worthy addition to the capital’s growing coffee scene.
Rating: ★★★★☆ 4/5
Address: Shop 6, New Khanna Market, Lodhi Colony, New Delhi – 110003
Timings: Monday to Sunday | 8AM to 10PM
For Reservation: +91 07021267043
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