Review: Nisaba – A Quiet, Confident Return by Chef Manish Mehrotra

Chef Manish Mehrotra, the visionary behind Indian Accent and the pioneer who redefined modern Indian fine dining globally now decided to begin again, expectations are naturally sky-high. But Nisaba is not about spectacle, reinvention, or proving a point. Instead, it is about clarity, comfort, restraint, and soulful cooking and a reflection of a chef who has arrived at a deeply personal and grounded phase of his culinary journey.

After decades of accolades, global recognition, and pushing the boundaries of Indian gastronomy, Mehrotra’s latest venture feels refreshingly honest. Nisaba is less about theatrics and more about quiet confidence, allowing flavours, memories, and emotions to lead the narrative.

Nisaba is Set within the serene environs of Sunder Nursery at the Humayun’s Tomb complex. The restaurant’s design mirrors its culinary philosophy: warm, minimal, refined, and deeply thoughtful.

Bathed in natural light during the day and transforming into an intimate, softly-lit sanctuary by evening, the space is marked by clean architectural lines, earthy textures, and understated elegance. At the heart of the restaurant stands a striking sculptural installation by artist Dhananjay Singh, inspired by grain, growth, and renewal — a poetic nod to the philosophy of nourishment and creation.

Rather than dominating the experience, the interiors gently frame it, allowing conversations, flavours, and emotions to take centre stage. It is a space designed not to impress, but to embrace.

Chef Mehrotra moves away from the hyper-modern, experimental vocabulary that once defined him, choosing instead to cook from instinct, memory, and emotional resonance.

The menu reads like a deeply personal diary — rooted in Indian comfort food, reinterpreted with finesse, restraint, and global polish. Dishes celebrate regional flavours, nostalgic classics, and ingredient-forward cooking, all presented with elegant simplicity. From the robust depth of the Motihari mutton with stewed garlic and hing sattu kachori, which delivers earthy warmth and soulful intensity, to the delicate elegance of the Kashmiri haaq greens with turnip two ways and ghee rice, a dish that whispers subtlety and quiet luxury, the menu strikes a perfect balance between boldness and restraint. The Zaveri Bazaar Dal with birista and ajwain roti stands out as a heartfelt homage to Mumbai’s legendary vegetarian institutions, evoking nostalgia through layered flavours and comforting familiarity, while the signature pao bhaji with dahi mirchi and onion pao is pure indulgence.

The cocktail programme at Nisaba mirrors the kitchen’s philosophy of restraint and balance, offering thoughtfully crafted drinks that highlight subtle Indian influences without overwhelming the palate. Familiar global bases are elevated through nuanced accents — bourbon finds warmth in curry agave and pineapple, tequila is gently sharpened with pickled pear and chamoy, while mezcal is softened by the floral depth of strawberry and Assam tea kombucha. The zero-proof offerings are equally compelling, featuring kombucha blends, botanical infusions, and probiotic-forward creations that feel clean, refreshing, and restorative. Each drink is designed to complement the food rather than compete with it, ensuring a harmonious and refined drinking experience that lingers long after the last sip.

Desserts continue the narrative of playful nostalgia, from baked rasmalai with fried chironji to the now-iconic potato chips with vanilla ice cream — an unexpectedly brilliant marriage of two guilty pleasures.

Each plate is guided by clarity — flavours are bold yet balanced, complex yet accessible, making Nisaba a place where both gourmands and comfort-seekers feel equally at home.

Address: NISABA, First Floor of the Humayun’s Tomb World Heritage Site Museum, Nizamuddin, New Delhi – 110013 

Restaurant Timings: 12 noon to 12 midnight 

Price for Two: INR 5,000 without alcohol plus taxes 



Naomikah

Founder & Editor

Naomikah is the voice behind The Gourmet Edit, where food, lifestyle, fashion and travel come together in curated harmony. With a sharp eye for detail and a love for storytelling, she uncovers what’s fresh, refined, and worth experiencing.

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