Review: Madam Chow brings a slice of China to Gurugram

My anticipation builds up even before I step into the new Chinese restaurant at The Oberoi Gurgaon. Its name ‘Madam Chow’ conjures up visions of the Orient, of mystique, of unusual aromas, even some drama. After all her persona has been conceived as an elusive, faceless lady with unmatched knowledge of flavours. Over the next three hours that I spend here, both the decor and the cuisine more than meet my expectations.

The bright and airy upscale restaurant is housed in a glass pavilion that overlooks the hotel’s signature blue reflective pool. The pitter patter of rain only adds to the charm of this 86-seater space spread over two levels but I can imagine returning on a winter day to watch sunlight shimmering on the glass. The suspended ceramic tiles, wood and stone interiors all create an elegant space.  A private dining room for 12 people on the upper level is the right spot for small gatherings.

On one side of the restaurant lies a semi open kitchen, where chefs led by Wong Kwai Wah and Mark Lin, work with flair and finesse to whip up flavours from the Sichuan and Guangdong provinces of China. Watching the action in the woks is of course quite the hunger stirrer. As I wait for some starters to arrive, the server takes my order for drinks. The cocktail forward bar focuses on Asian ingredients to complement the menu. I go for the Pearl of Fire where Sichuan peppercorn and jalapenos give the tequila cocktail a much needed spicy finish. The menu has six signature cocktails.

The meal kicks off with a parade  of dimsums and baos. Walk in the Forest, with mushroom and truffle cream wrapped in spinach, is earthy and indulgent with the truffle flavouring the mushroom perfectly.  I love the clever balance in Mala Medley, a delicious dimsum stuffed with Sichuan chicken and pickled wood ear fungus. It is spicy, though not overwhelming. But the showstopper is Orient Tide –  a delicate blue pea flower wrapping filled with lobster, truffle, and asparagus. Gorgeous to look at, even better to taste with the buttery lobster and truffle adding that umami flavour.

If you like a dash of theatrics, order a dish named Bonfire at the Table, where the edible ‘logs’ of plant protein and edamame are lit tableside. A wisp of smoke tinged with spice wafts up tickling the taste buds. Then there is the playful Lychee Bonsai, where a bonsai tree arrives at the table strung with baos in the shape of lychees stuffed with shrimp and molten mozzarella.

Watching Chef Mark Lin at work on the Peking duck is pure theatre. Rolled into pancakes with scallions, cucumber, and plum sauce, the duck is so flawless and flavourful that I could have tucked into many more. But I know there is a full course to follow. For mains, the highlights are the Drunken Lobster – bathed in Narcissus rice wine and paired with garlic broccoli, it is succulent and sweet. Definitely worth going back for. The Xinjiang Cumin Lamb Ribs with toasted sesame were smoky and delicious.

Ding Baozhen chicken named after the Governor of Sichuan province is peppered with cashews, dried chillies and Sichuan peppercorns, which have that numbing effect on the mouth. For those who can handle spice, it is a great dish indeed.

Desserts are usually where Chinese restaurants leave one wanting more. But not Madam Chow. Those with a sweet tooth must order the Jasmine Tea ‘Mai Lai Go’ –a soft Cantonese sponge cake with carnation milk poured on top and served with dehydrated rice crisp. There is the ever popular ‘Darsan’ – those delicious and crisp honey noodles served with Sichuan pepper ice cream. For those who like to wrap their meal with some Chinese tea, there is a wide choice.

At Madam Chow it is not the cuisine alone that is the draw. With its elegant setting and authentic food, it is an experience – whether you go for a round of dimsums or a full-fledged Chinese feast.

Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ 4.5/5
Summary: Madam Chow is your answer when you’re looking for a Chinese meal where authenticity and innovation join hands to create delicately balanced flavours.
Address: The Oberoi, 443, Udyog Vihar, Phase V, Gurgaon – 122016
Timings: Lunch: 12.30 pm to 3.00 pm; Dinner: 7.00 pm to 11.00 pm
Price for two: INR 9500 plus taxes with alcohol and INR 7000 without alcohol
Phone: 7827966903 
Instagram: www.instagram.com/madamchowgurgaon/
Website: www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-gurgaon/dining/madam-chow/

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