Review: Karan Johar’s OJU in Gurugram is a superhit space

Lights. Camera. Action. Filmmaker Karan Johar may not be directing a film but his latest venture – a vibrant, high-energy bar and restaurant – OJU – in Gurugram is nothing short of a movie set where the main characters are cocktails and Japanese food. No wonder, KJo’s Instagram announcement on its opening went viral with everyone in the millennium city including me keen to know what he’s come up with.

On a Friday evening, I decided to check out the restaurant, launched by Mumbai based Neuma that is co-owned by Johar and Truepalate Hospitality led by Ankit Tayal, Anshul Goel and Vartik Tihara.

With glass doors and panels, the indoor and outdoor space blend seamlessly. A long, swanky bar with tall stools is the perfect place to start your evening. I notice how the seating for 120 has been divided between high tables, sofas, small chairs and the alfresco area, allowing you to choose your own setting, whether for a lively evening or a cosy corner. But when Johar is in the picture, how can there not be drama? The interiors by Aayushi Malik blend stone, wood and muted tones with Japanese themes — handpicked art, Kyoto-inspired wallpaper and shelves lined with books. Minimalist yet chic, it overlooks the zen garden in the alfresco space.

I was seated in the small PDR where the music turned up a notch each hour. I got started with one of the main stars, the cocktails. The brainchild behind the bar program is Countertop India, led by Pankaj Balachandran with Siya Negi as head mixologist. Keeping the focus on Japan and Peru, the menu follows a lunar pattern, starting with lighter drinks and progressing to bolder, heavier cocktails.

I began with something light and fruity – Ume Sour – with plum gin, umeshu, umeboshi brine, lemon, orgeat and vegan foam, and then sampled a couple of more gin cocktails that have a fruity accent. Surprisingly, Lima with lychee was not overly sweet while Guava, with cool, tropical notes, was subtle despite the sweetness. But the real surprise was Ponzu, an inventive, must-try cocktail. Combining vodka, chilli oil, ponzu, green apple juice, coriander, milk, lime and honey water, it was like drinking liquid ramen and packed in quite a punch. Call Me Complex it is a potent mix of mezcal, pisco, cherry liqueur, Amaro and aromatic and orange bitters. Strong, smoky and rich, make sure this is your last order as you can easily end your evening with this, letting its complexity linger.

In the food menu, the global experience (read Nobu) of award-winning Chef Mahmoud Mohamed Awadalla Gaber and Chef Nitin Bhardwaj counts as they bring the best of Japanese textures and flavours on your plate. I started with grilled spicy edamame – because how can you be at a Japanese restaurant and not order this, then turned to a dish which the chef highly recommended, Spinach with Gomadare Sauce. Although usually sceptical of ordering vegetarian, just one bite made me weak in the knees.  The sesame, yuzu and light soy mixed with crunchy spinach pack in so much flavour that the tongue does a tangy and sweet dance.

Seafood is where OJU shines. The Tuna Tataki dressed with lime wafu dressing just melts in the mouth. The seafood gyoza with ponzu butter was a notch salty for my palate, but the popcorn shrimp tempura with spicy red kasho mayo was perfect — crisp, golden, and the ultimate cocktail companion. Of course, how can the much loved sushi be ignored? I went for the Soft Shell Crab Tempura Maki roll with Niniku (soy sauce with garlic) which were quite delicious.

One of evening’s star dishes came from the robata grill. The delicious Hokkaido Scallop with lime soy butter and Shiso came beautifully presented on a shell. The lime soy butter added that perfect tangy flavour and creaminess to the soft and silky scallops without being too overpowering. Then came the hero of the meal – Miso Black Cod with Yuzu Miso Sauce. The flaky and buttery black cod was velvety and smooth with the yuzu miso sauce giving it a perfect citrus flavour and balance that instantly reminded me of the black cod I had once savoured at Nobu in Sydney.

For those with a sweet tooth, desserts have been given equal attention – be it the Mocha Molten Cake, the Strawberry Mochi (going back for this) or the Coconut Chawanmushi.

Happy to say that with OJU, Karan Johar has delivered yet another superhit.

Address: Ground Floor, The Anya, Golf Course Road, Gurugram, Harayan
Timings: 7pm – 12am
Price for two: 4000 ++
Reservations: +91 8595044646, +91 8595724646

_{Also Read:
Review: Ikk Panjab brings culinary traditions and flavours from undivided Punjab at a new outlet in Delhi
Review: House of Paloma, Bandra’s New Cocktail Bar That Feels Like a Living Gallery
Review: Fireback, The Thai High}