Confession: Hosa is one of my favourite restaurants in Goa, so when I knew it was opening close to home in Gurugram, I couldn’t be happier. Foodies need no introduction to this Goan institution which has won palettes with its modern and flavourful tweak to familiar South Indian dishes.
A blue-and-white façade welcomes one to the restaurant, which has opened at One Horizon Centre – the same space where Comorin, another venture by EVH International, is located. The colour theme continues into the patio area, where white rattan chairs with blue upholstery sit under tall palms that add a calming touch of green.
Breaking away from a restaurant’s usual straight layout, the dining area inside is slightly curved. The eye wanders to the white rafters on the ceiling while two quirky art pieces on the wall add to the drama. Designed by Rohini Kapur, who also did up the Goa restaurant, it is quite spacious with seating for 90 people in the indoors and patio area.
The first dish brought to the table came as a surprise. It was Cracked Potatoes -crisp fried potatoes tossed in chilli gun powder and served with a side of cauliflower mousse, drizzled with curry leaf oil and hibiscus dust. Brand Chef Harish Rao joked that this is his take on aloo gobi – but these crunchy bites packed in so much flavour that I could see it climbing the popularity charts.
Divided into small and large plates, the menu draws inspiration from Chef Harish’s travels across South India. The Shimeji Mushroom Varuval for instance is inspired by the kalaan shops of Chennai where he grew up. It came with a side of the silkiest mushroom pate I have ever eaten along with air fried peas and crushed green peppercorn. Harish told me that the pate is actually made up of mushroom trimmings so nothing goes waste.
Instead of Hosa Fried Chicken, I opted for the Pamban Chicken – charred chicken skewers with lemongrass and jaggary sauce. It was as delicious as it sounds. Amidst all this indulgence, mixologist Varun Sharma, who leads the bar program here (and at all other EVH restaurants) kept the cocktails flowing. With more than 20 signature ones, it might have been easy to get confused but a cocktail map makes the choice easier. They are divided into three categories – tall and refreshing, short and boozy and tiki. Those not in the mood to drink, can try one of the house sodas.
The cocktails are quite inventive and experimental – where else do you combine beer and whisky to create a really delicious shandy? Or order a cocktail named Deccan Fire, which is prepared by soaking paneer in tequila and then straining it. It is potent and spicy with a touch of South Indian masala.
What took me by surprise was how good some of the vegetarian dishes were. For example, the humble poriyal got a complete makeover when the chef decided to swap ingredients like cabbage and beans with spinach and edamame making it crunchy and flavourful. Even the Potato Gassi with coconut chili masala and neer dosa was a flavour bomb – mildly spicy without being too overpowering.
But having a weakness for non-vegetarian fare, I was eyeing the meats and seafood. The Mutton Ghee Roast, tender and spicy and served with a crisp dosa was a match made in heaven.
I was too full for desserts but of course tasted a few. The Filter Coffee tiramisu stood out because instead of the traditional lady fingers the chef has used rusk which soaks up the coffee. Next time I will try the Chocolate Chilli cheesecake, because how wrong can one go with that combination?
Rating: ★★★★☆ (4.8/5)
Summary: Hosa is one of those restaurants that is genuinely doing an inventive version of South Indian food without losing its essence.
Address: One Horizon Centre, Golf Course Road, DLF Ph-V, Sector-43, Gurugram, Haryana 122009
Timings: Sunday to Thursday: Noon to midnight; Friday and Saturday: Noon to 1 am
Price for two: Rs. 3000 (Food only) and Rs. 5000 (with Alcohol)
Phone: 0124 4957707
Website: www.hosarestaurant.com
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