Fiji Off the Beaten Shore

I was gliding down Fiji’s gorgeous river, Navua, on a bamboo raft after spending an hour at a waterfall. While others swam around the gushing cascade, I looked around for a few moments to take it all in.  The sheer cliffs, the trek down a narrow, slippery pathway to the waterfall, the verdant hills, rafting gently downstream and swimming around a waterfall – this is definitely not what I had expected to do in Fiji, the country of long, sandy beaches.

The immersive river experience at Viti Levu, the country’s largest island, made me realise that this archipelago of over 300 islands is much more than stretches of white powder along the Pacific Ocean. So, I swapped sipping a cold beer on a beach at my swanky hotel with visits to a couple of villages to explore the heart of this culturally rich country.

As I reached Koromodako village, I saw smoke curling up from the ground. Wondering what was happening, I approached a friendly local named Nemani who explained that they were preparing a ceremonial feast called Lovo for us. Chicken wrapped in leaves was being slow cooked for a few hours in an underground oven on hot stones and then smoked.

My anticipation built up as I headed to the community hall to be greeted by the enthusiastic sounds of “Bula” – the Fijian “hello.” Soon, a ceremonial drink, Kava, made from dried roots of the pepper plant, was served in a coconut shell cup – a tradition that dates back hundreds of years and helps forge bonds. Potent and earthy, it took a few sips to acquire the taste but set the mood for the dancing and singing that followed. We danced with the as they sang local songs.  Then it was time to sit down on the and feast on that smoky chicken and much more – local dishes like cassava and sweet bread.

More than these traditional ceremonies, what connected me to Fiji was the warmth of the locals and the realisation that their closely connected communities still remain deeply rooted in tradition. As much as the tiny country’s surreal landscape, it is soothing to spend time in a place where the pace is unhurried, where time appears to have stood still and where people seem content and happy.  It’s 900,000 population is made up of indigenous people known as iTaukei and people of Indian descent.

Towards the end of my one-week trip, I headed to another village, Nadiri on the Coral Coast, which stretches for 130 kilometers along the southern coast of Viti Levu and is known for its vibrant coral reefs. After the customary warm greetings in the quintessential Fijian setting of swaying palm trees, smiling children and turquoise waters, it was time for something really unusual. Standing on the beach, I planted several corals on a frame, which the locals would transfer to the ocean. It was surreal to be a part of a conservation effort.

The villagers explained that due to global warming that is also affecting the oceans, the corals are dying and since 2009 they have been running a Marine Protected Area program to save marine life. Then it was time to go snorkeling. The wondrous life beneath the waves was both dazzling and a reminder of how people here value living in harmony with the sea. I am glad I connected to it.

Fiji had more surprises in store. Although known for its local beer, I had not associated this island with coffee but at Bula Coffee Estate, I discovered that less than 15 years ago, it began being planted locally. The energising aroma of a freshly brewed coffee cup greeted me before the Crop to Cup tour. After walking through coffee plants, watching beans being processed, and a tasting session, I left with a bag of beans to carry the flavour back home.

To drink in the island’s stunning landscape, I also took out time to zip down the highway – the two main roads are aptly named King’ s and Queen’s. As Fiji accepts the Indian driving license, it is easy to get behind the wheel. Starting from the capital city Suva, I hit the King’s Highway (north). With the wind brushing my face, the ocean playing peekaboo, swaying trees and verdant terrain all along, it reminded me that Fiji’s magic isn’t only its beaches, but in unexpected encounters,
experiences and connections with the locals.