Review: Gaijin, Mumbai — A Daring, Delicious Ode to the Outsider

There’s a certain electricity to walking into a space that dares to be different. At Gaijin, nestled in a bustling pocket of Mumbai, that electricity hums from the moment you enter—through the speakers spinning rare Japanese vinyl, across the brutalist surfaces and neon glow, and onto the plates that challenge your idea of what Japanese cuisine can be.

“Gaijin” means outsider in Japanese, and rather than tiptoeing around that identity, this restaurant wears it boldly on its sleeve. It’s a place that thrives in contrast—between reverence and rebellion, precision and play, tradition and reinterpretation. Helmed by Chef Anand Morwani, alongside F&B entrepreneurs Rohan Mangalorkar and Karan Gaba, Gaijin takes the rules of Japanese cooking and reimagines them through an unapologetically Indian lens. The result is a deeply original dining experience that refuses to play safe.

The menu is structured for exploration: cold plates, hot plates, nigiri, gunkan, maki, and mains, each telling a different story. Dishes like the Truffle Corn Gunkan (smoked corn, miso, spicy rayu wrapped in nori and takuan) and Lamb Ribs cooked to decadent perfection strike a beautiful balance between umami and surprise. The Cherry Wood Smoked Himalayan Trout and Crispy Kataifi Scallop are showstoppers, but the vegetarian plates are no side act—Spinach Cream Cheese Gyoza with kimchi beurre blanc and the Grilled Zucchini stuffed with eggplant and corn koji hot sauce are both playful and profoundly satisfying.

Gaijin’s flavour-forward approach extends to its cocktail program, developed by Varun Sudhakar and Nischal Suman, which reads more like an art book than a drinks list. The Mt. Fuji cocktail—served with a dramatic ice reveal—is as theatrical as it is crisp and balanced. The Kombu Breeze, Oink Oni, and the deeply savory In a Pickle challenge your expectations of what a cocktail should be. For those looking to skip the alcohol, the Spirited Away zero-proof collection is every bit as considered, with drinks like Kyoto Cold Brew and Sakura Fizz offering texture, balance, and narrative.

The interiors, designed by Spiro Spero, are cinematic. The main floor is anchored by a monumental seven-tonne stone—a tribute to Suiseki, the Japanese art of stone appreciation—and surrounded by curated seating zones, a listening station, and a vibrant omakase counter. Upstairs is more intimate, perfect for private dinners or small gatherings. But it’s the Tokyo-inspired alleyway, complete with graffitied shop shutters and cheeky signage (think: Gulab & Gyoza, Kirana Katsu), that steals the show. It’s immersive, eccentric, and refreshingly unserious—like stepping into an anime scene layered with Mumbai chaos.

At its core, Gaijin isn’t just about food—it’s about identity. It’s about celebrating the act of being different and turning that into a superpower. The experience is immersive, the storytelling meticulous, and the food—no matter how wild it gets—remains rooted in culinary craft.

For those who’ve ever felt like an outsider or simply crave something beyond the expected, Gaijin offers a vibrant, flavour-rich rebellion—and one of Mumbai’s most exciting dining journeys yet.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

Don't Miss

First Kolhapuris, Now Juttis? Is Prada a Little Too Obsessed with India?

Prada’s always had a way of keeping the fashion world

Where Farro is the hero

Farro is the treasured first born of the enterprising and