It might have taken a little over 50 years but IHCL’s gold standard restaurant in authentic Chinese fine dining has ultimately reached north India. Golden Dragon started its journey from the Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai, in 1973, and travelled to Hyderabad, Chennai, and Colombo before landing at a refurbished Taj Surajkund Resort & Spa in the capital region.
Well, better late than never!
Even though born in the times of GenX, its signature recipes have found admirers across the generations – old and new. A reason being staying true to the heritage ingredients and techniques, and never giving in to the temptation of putting a contemporary spin to the age-old delicacies. The experience, meanwhile, hasn’t skipped a step in keeping up with the times.
The space
The interiors here are, thus, not merely an impressive extension of the contemporary touches the whole place seems to be beaming with, but an emphasised assertion of it. They are opulent yet restrained, rooted in tradition yet current, and dynamic yet subtle.
Clearly inspired from all things Oriental, all the gold (not the overbearing kind) is well balanced by linear wooden partitions, the green in the décor and seating, and the plum blossom motifs. They perfectly match the floral chairs of the private dining rooms too. Guohua is the driving force behind this. The well-known Chinese art form, one of the oldest in the world, combines poetry, calligraphy, and seal engraving. Not limited to capturing physical realm, its brushes and pigments on paper, wood, or silk, focus on harmony of all kinds.
Hence, among the framed installations and paintings on display, The Lantern Bearer’s Mountain Journey stands out for its fantastical approach – a black lacquer panel created in the Chinoiserie style depicting such a landscape. Then there are Shadows of the Golden Dragon, Renwu Hua, Path to Longevity, The Sage and the Waterfall, that add extra dreamy to the whole experience.
The food
Led by executive chef, Anuj Mathur, with chef Tong Sing Wah from Hong Kong, the kitchen ensures the artistry continues on the plates too. There is no redundant drama, just unmuddled flavours making their presence felt.
Boasting of almost all the classics that diners have associated with Golden Dragon for decades, as chef Mathur shares, “the menu has been adjusted a bit as per the palate and the produce here”. The kitchen’s commitment to “traditional cooking techniques of wok, creating delicate broths, and precise steaming” are evident in Three Flavors Noodle; Scallops with Soy, Chilli and Ginger; Wok-Fried Sliced Lamb with Ginger, Onion, and many more.
I started with the Imperial Crabmeat Soup. Comforting and delicate on a summer evening, I wonder how perfect it would be for a winter one. Aren’t we glad that we, the people of Delhi NCR, will have that option over the other Golden Dragons?
The dim sums that follow – Prawn Har Gao, Water-Poached Chicken Dumpling with Spicy Garlic Sauce, Flaky Radish Dumpling, Edamame and Truffle oil Dumpling, tickle the taste buds just right. While some, like yours truly, may still be divided on the radish one, which has been a forever presence on the restaurant’s menu, its pastry deserves all the praise. It is the lamb gyoza, though, that gets my full marks for being bolder in flavour.
The Golden Fried Prawns taste as good as ever. It is, however, the likes of above-mentioned Scallops, and mains’ Steamed Sea Bass, Sizzled with Ginger, Chilli, Spring Onion, and Soya, that remind you all over again why Golden Dragon stands out. The Beijing Duck, though scores on drama, it needs some more time to elevate itself to the same level.
The drinks
For the lovers of tea, it doesn’t often get better than the Jasmine Pearls of Taj. This Chinese green tea with over-night infused whole jasmine flowers, are then hand-rolled into a fragrant delight that keeps me company throughout the meal. Only to be interspersed with an equally regal presence of Empress Bliss – a signature cocktail of sparkling wine, pink vodka and berries.
The Sesame Pearl Dessert Martini, that comes accompanying a mild-flavoured Mango Pudding, is well suited to let it be the last note on your tastebuds. This cognac, cream, coffee, and five-spiced syrup concoction comes sitting pretty with a sesame rim and a chocolate cigar. Among the others, Oriental Kick comes highly recommended for its gin infused with Sichuan pepper, hibiscus, honey, lemon and ginger syrup. For the next time!
For, just like the new corners of this Taj, Golden Dragon’s vast menu also deserves thorough exploration.
Rating: 4.5/5
Address: Taj Surajkund Resort & Spa, Shooting Range Road, Block C, Surajkund, Faridabad, Haryana
Timings: Lunch – 12:30 pm to 3:00 pm. Dinner – 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm
Price for two: Rs. 4,000+
Dress code: Smart casuals
Phone: 0129 6618125
