Anyone who knows Delhi’s food knows butter chicken. And anyone who knows butter chicken knows Daryaganj, the restaurants. While their roots can be traced back to the Old Delhi location namesake, and memory cajoled by the great Indian butter chicken debate, this story is not about that.
For, Daryaganj might have satiated many a food lover’s wishes for old-world flavours for years, this one is all about a new step towards a tightrope walk of fond and finesse. With ‘Gold’ it is, though, geographically coming full circle, intent-wise it is taking a leap into premium.
Just a few steps away from the first Daryaganj restaurant that opened in 2019 in the capital’s Aerocity, Daryaganj Gold is a testimony to gradual evolution of a brand and the experience it provides.
The space
The first look is quintessentially Daryaganj – wood interspersed with shiny brass highlights. The second look is the one that marks the difference between the two identities. Standing at the edge of the checkered-floored first dining space is a dark granite water fountain with golden lights and dark-red low wall and pillar backdrop. It not only divides the place into two but gives a quick introduction to the opulence promised with Daryaganj Gold.
To the left of it is a geometrical bar awashed in warm tones and old-world plush leather bar chairs. To the right is a tiny space for live performances. And, in between are the tables all set, with metal covered huge tandoors behind a glass wall slowly bringing the kitchen alive. There are private dining rooms too.
“While there was always a need for a bigger space, thanks to the customer demand, this one (Daryanaganj Gold) was not just about catering to that,” says Amit Bagga, co-founder and CEO of Daryaganj Restaurants. The founder is Raghav Jaggi, the grandson of Kundan Lal Jaggi, who made the OG team that introduced Delhi to butter chicken.
“It is about giving our guests a space where they can have a finer experience in a relaxed manner, with unhurried meals and drinks,” adds Bagga, who even donned the hat of an interior designer when it came to this 150+ seating place’s “lighting details”.
The food
And, that deliberation to details is evident in the menu too. While, much to the regulars’ delight, the place serves all the familiar Daryaganj delights too, the Gold menu first makes you sceptical. The mere mention of Chicken Tikka Chaat makes my chaat-loving and tikka-adoring self raise an eyebrow.
Hence, I rather start with Gol Gappe Trio, Palak Patta Chaat that comes with these semi spheres of spiced frozen yogurt in mango and blackcurrant flavours, and India Gate Avocado Bhelpuri. Any following setback is also okay now. But, while Chicken Tikka Chaat coming with Thai pomelo and a citrusy hint from oranges pleasantly surprises, Dahi Bhalla Bingsu is oh-so-summer appropriate with its yogurt snow shavings and melt-in-mouth bhalla. It is, however, Mushroom Ram Ladoo, infused with truffle oil, that completely impresses me. The elevation of this frugal street food even trumps Salmon Tikka that follows.
In fact, the chaat section is the showstopper. What delights me is that there is no futile courting of some ingredients (read onion, clashing herbs, or other garnish) that are prevalent in Delhi’s chaat and its posh avatars.
While showing a tad of loyalty to the original stars of Daryaganj – chicken pakora, seekh kebabs, and tikkas, I save myself for the Gold menu’s mains. The Five Senses Chicken and Mutton Curry arrive to the table in plated pressure cookers whistling away to glory. Accompanied by Nargasi Kofta, 24 Karat Mutton Biryani, and Gucchi Pulao, these slow cooked curries are indulgent, tender, aromatic, yet not overwhelming or heavy.
The drinks, the desserts, and all
The beverage menu is also loaded with many all-time classics. The signature Gold cocktails stand out – both in song-invoking monikers and mixology. Anarkali’s gin-based refreshing notes pair well with all things chaat. And, as the evening progresses, and the plates get meatier and heavier, the likes of Do Rum – white and dark rum with honey, jaggery, passion fruit and Thai lemon, Tandoori Pineapple Picante, and Mango Gold – mango-infused tequila and lemon, clarified with condensed milk, gherkin brine, add a certain solemnity to the proceedings.
Jashn E Daryaganj is as indulgent as they come, with its kewra-infused whisky. This one is what you start with the mains and let it slowly accompany you till the desserts. For, whenever the palate asks for a quick break from that light Rasmalai, or Jelly Fruit Cream Custard with fruit caviar, or good old Kulfi, Jashn E Daryaganj does its duty in style so you can spoil the sweet tooth all over again.
In a nutshell, Daryaganj Gold is a place for unrushed gastronomy. It is a place to go down the memory lane, and also for appreciating innovation done just right.
Rating: ★★★★☆ 4/5
Address: Worldmark 1, Aerocity, New Delhi
Timings: 12 noon to 4 pm, 6 pm to 11 pm
Price for two: Rs. 2,000 plus taxes
Phone: 9519471947
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