Flowers are clearly the flavour of the season, and when these motifs make their way into sharply tailored jackets layered over fluid skirts, corsets paired with asymmetrical skirts, modern light gowns, and sharara sets in blooming colours, they are bold yet refined expressions of style.
Interestingly, this is Bhal’s 20th year in the industry after he started his eponymous couture label in 2004. An alumnus of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, he was also the first Indian designer to be featured on the Milan Fashion Week calendar.
Whispers of Ember is a very personal collection for Bhal. “It’s about that in-between moment when something ends and something new begins, like the soft stillness right before winter. I wanted to capture that mood through clothes that feel emotional, quiet, and timeless. It’s still very signature to my world, with intricate handwork, floral detailing, and structure balanced with softness, but the energy is calmer and more introspective this time,” he says.
The collection reflects the quiet transformation of autumn, a season that does not announce itself; it arrives gently. “The colours fade, the air changes, and it’s subtle but beautiful. That’s what I tried to bring into this line. The palette moves away from strong festive tones into warmer, earthier shades like muted rusts, dusty golds, and faded greens. Even the embroideries have a worn-in, antique feel. It’s not about making a statement; it’s about feeling something when you wear it,” explains Bhal.
This season, Bhal wanted to create pieces that people can actually live in, not just wear once. There are embroidered jackets that work beautifully with both lehengas and trousers, sheer tunics layered over slip dresses, and structured co-ord sets that make a subtle festive statement. You’ll also see easy, fluid separates that still have couture-level detailing but are far more wearable and versatile.
Bhal and his team have worked with fabrics that hold movement beautifully, such as organza, chiffon, tulle, and light silks. “I’ve always loved creating volume, but this time it’s more controlled. The jackets are longer, the blouses more sculpted, and the skirts have structure without being heavy. Everything feels lighter on the body, but the craftsmanship remains rich and layered. The idea was to make couture feel almost second-skin, effortless but impactful,” he adds.
The floral motif is unmissable, and Bhal admits that florals have been part of his design DNA from the beginning. “I find endless inspiration in them because they never look the same twice. They age, fade, bloom, and reinvent themselves. For me, florals represent life’s imperfections and beauty at once. I also think they have a universal emotion attached. Whether through embroidery, texture, or print, they bring warmth and familiarity to every piece,” he says.
With the new season here, there are new autumn-winter trends as well, and Bhal feels that people are becoming more conscious about what they buy. “There’s a strong move toward rewearable couture, separates that you can style in different ways, and pieces that aren’t bound to one occasion. Layering is also evolving with softer tones, tonal dressing, and richer textures instead of loud colour blocking. It’s a more mature and grounded way of looking at fashion.”
His fashion advice is simple – buy less but buy better. Choose pieces that you will actually reach for again and again. And always stay true to your personal style because that’s what makes fashion interesting. Trends will come and go, but authenticity never goes out of style. “What excites me right now is that people are beginning to appreciate craftsmanship again. They want to know who made their clothes and the story behind them. Whispers of Ember is built on that philosophy of slowing down, creating with intention, and letting beauty exist quietly without needing too much explanation,” he signs off.
Whispers of Ember is now available at Varun Bahl’s flagship store and leading multi-designer boutiques. Website: https://varunbahl.com/ Instagram: @worldofvarunbahl
