The minute you enter Dhordo, the sunsets hit different. The skies unveil shades that city dwellers have not seen in ages. Each year, this small village in Gujarat’s Kutch region readies itself to welcome patrons from all over the country and world, and be the mirror to the vibrancy of Gujarat. After a short 1.5-hour ride from Bhuj Airport, you enter Dhordo Tent City and are greeted with warm smiles and fanfare that make you feel royal.
The Great Rann of Kutch, which is aptly called the Moonland of Gujarat, transforms into a makeshift but luxurious, tented city. The white expanse opens its arms wide and lets you peel its layers, revealing the local rhythm. The pace is slow, but the living is full of life. At Rann Utsav, you experience the local culture, food and the traditional handicraft making, all in tandem with the cultural curiosity the visitors have. Bringing all of it to life is Evoke Experiences, which has been managing and operating Rann Utsav Tent City for years now.
There is a range of stay options divided across categories, with Non-AC Swiss Cottage being the base and the Darbari being the most regal category. Each is designed for comfort and showcases colourful carpets, furnishings, etc, along with a host of amenities. Divided across clusters, A-O, according to their categories, Dhordo Tent City boasts two common dining halls and one VIP dining hall. There’s an adventure zone, a toddler area, a celebration area, machans and viewing galleries, and more things to keep everyone entertained.
The White Rann is the world’s second-largest salt flat, the largest being Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. The vast, marshy expanse in Kutch is a result of high tides and monsoon. After the water evaporates from the 7,505 sq km., typically by December-January, what’s left behind is a white carpet covered in salt that is unfit for human consumption but finds uses in the industrial world.
We set out during twilight and reached the white desert at the blue hour to catch the vibrant colours unfurl before our eyes with the moon still not set. The land was marshy, and pockets sank below our feet at places. We made our way to a spot from where the cinematic sun rose high. During sunset, the part of White Rann we visited was bustling with traditional music, paramotoring activities, camel cart rides, and a picture-book setting.
When booking your Rann Ustav packages, make sure you add a visit to nearby Nirona Village to see how one family is practising Rogan Art for eight generations. And, don’t forget a curated stargazing session organised by Team Evoke on-site or nearby. This year, Rann Utsav’s itinerary also expands to Dholavira — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — which is a side of Kutch that needs to be talked about more. A stop at the Insta-famous Road to/through Heaven is another must-see item you can tick off easily and revel in sightings of flamingoes.
The theme of Rann Ustav this time is “Adhura Nahi Pura Kutch Dekhiye”, and I cannot stress enough how you need to see it yourself, as pictures will never do justice to its rugged beauty.
Rann Utsav is on till March 4, 2026. For details, visit their official website.
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